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Writer's pictureErin Nixon

Day Seven: Sunrise Hike and Chatsworth

Updated: May 7

I had looked up the hike to Stanage Edge last night before I had gone to sleep and planned it out, but I had breakfast reserved for 8:20 and didn’t know if I wanted to do it before or after.


I woke up at 4 am.


Dawn hike it is! I didn’t want to be fully walking in the middle of the moors in the dark, so I packed my backpack and left around 5 am to drive to the trailhead. I got there right about dawn and started up the trail. The climb up to the edge is steep but it only took about half an hour to get up to the top.


Only one on the trail, it was a lovely start to the day.


The top flattened out to a smooth path with an amazing view of the entire valley.


I imagine this is where Jane Eyre would have hidden when she was wandering on the moors.


I found the spot where Keira Knightly (as Lizzie Bennet) stands looking over the valley, and I had to take some photos (curtesy of my selfie stick/tripod).


What are men to rocks and mountains?


Obligatory birthday photo. Be nice, it’s 6 am.


On the way back down I met a nice Irish gentleman that was doing his morning walk as well. We chatted for a bit about the landscape and the bluestone (same stone that is used at Stonehenge) that’s scattered all along the valley from when they were putting in electricity for the region.


I also walked up on a little roe deer walking through the hiking trail. They are so tiny!


I got back to my car and drove back to the inn and relaxed while watching Mr. Malcolm’s List. Breakfast was at 8:20 and I got to take my time since Chatsworth didn’t open until 10:30.


I got to Chatsworth right as it opened, and I don’t know what I was expecting, but it’s basically a palace with extensive grounds. I toured the house first, since you have to book an entrance time.


Every ceiling had ornate murals, every room was decorated with priceless paintings, ceramics, and ornaments, and there was gilding everywhere. Nothing else like it.


After going through the sculpture gallery I couldn’t find Mathew Macfayden’s “Mr. Darcy” bust that they used in the film. Alas, must have just been a prop.


But wait! It’s in the gift shop!


Along with a note telling people NOT TO KISS the bust. People are weird.


The weather was holding out so I started the tour of the gardens right after, and I spent the next three hours exploring a solid square mile of forests, waterscapes, gardens, and sculpture.


This entire estate is like an enormous multi-generational building project. The grounds are fascinating because anytime one of the Dukes would find some place they loved, they would try to recreate a part of it on the estate—American pines, alpine rock work, trout streams—so fascinating.


I stopped for a sausage roll and an ice cream at the end.


Got my whippy ice cream. Birthday bliss.


I also made friends with the Mallards lurking around the food stand for scraps.


You know you’re at a rich person’s house when instead of pigeons they have ducks.


It started to rain so I picked up some postcards from the gift shop and headed on out. I needed to stop at the pharmacy in Bakewell so I headed there first. While I was in town I got a lavender bath bomb and found some Tunnock’s Teacakes for my birthday “cake”. Yes! I had been looking for them since I got to London and I finally got close enough to Scotland to find them!


I swung by the Eyre Arms to recharge the car but their one functioning charger was occupied, so I went back to the Devonshire Arms to relax. I’ll just have to stop a bit sooner tomorrow on the way to Bletchley. I think if I had intentionally gotten an electric car I would have planned my accommodations around that. As it is…it’s becoming a bit frustrating to plan around.


I settled back at the inn and tried out my bath bomb while watching a movie on my iPad and eating chocolates. I feel like I’m allowed to be a little ridiculous on vacation on my birthday.


I repacked my bags since all the souvenirs and pottery tools/knives are getting checked and I just need a small carry-on bag for tonight and tomorrow. I went ahead and packed up my rolling bag and put it in the car for the morning since I’m going to be leaving very early to fit in both Bletchley Park and Windsor tomorrow.


I went down to dinner and had a nice steak before crashing for the night and watching The Imitation Game (because Bletchley!) and then Death Comes to Pemberley (which was filmed all over Chatsworth!). A relaxing day and a lovely birthday!


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